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Dez 05 2012

decanter.com: Inside the First Growths Part 2

Tag: Regionensigi.hiss @ 11:29
Power in unityFirst Growths, Bordeaux First Growths, . I did not want to write a standard history of the estates, in which each was treated separately. I wanted to write an overview linking all five, to understand the moments when they became more powerful by working together and to trace some of the more difficult moments in their histories. It was going to be a delicate political dance.

I considered including all first growths of Bordeaux – which means also Châteaux d’Yquem, Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Pétrus – but the book would have become unwieldy in terms of size, and the stories of the other châteaux were not linked in the same way. Until the 19th century, Left Bank and Right Bank Bordeaux were different worlds, without even a bridge across the Garonne in Bordeaux city to allow for easy access between the two. Yquem, however, was tough to leave out, because it was crowned in the same ranking as the reds – and famously placed one ranking higher than them. But I decided Sauternes had its own, very different story, and the book needed to be focused if it was going to work. All nine are in the book, because they have a joint research and development club, mainly led by the châteaux’s technical directors, working with oenology students at the University of Bordeaux. But the heart of the story is the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant reds of the Left Bank. Continue reading „decanter.com: Inside the First Growths Part 2“


Dez 05 2012

decanter.com: Montalcino rallies round as Soldera’s Brunellos are destroyed

Tag: Weingütersigi.hiss @ 11:27

by Kerin O’Keefe –  Vandals have destroyed thousands of litres of ageing Brunello in the cellars of cult producer Gianfranco Soldera.Soldera cellar

The cellars at Soldera’s Case Basse estate in Montalcino were broken into and the taps opened on all of his Brunello barrels, draining the every litre of vintages from 2007 to 2012 – more than 600 hectolitres (60,000 litres) of ageing wine. No bottles, nor any valuables were taken or damaged.

Most observers assume this was a personal attack on Soldera (pictured), one of the most outspoken Brunello producers and a staunch advocate of the rule that allows only 100% Sangiovese in the blend.

Fellow producers and their consorzio, shocked at the crime, are rallying behind him.

‘When the news broke late yesterday, I called Soldera to offer solidarity,’ Fabrizio Bindocci, managing director of Il Poggione and president of the Brunello Consorzio, told Decanter.com.

‘I was pleased to find the usual Soldera: driven, determined and tough. He told me right out, “I’ll get through this. I’m not giving up and I’m not beaten”,’ Bindocci said.

Although Montalcino’s producers are notoriously individualistic and tight-lipped, they are dropping their usual reserve.

‘I’ve already received phone calls from numerous producers offering their support for Soldera and asking what they can do to help. In a situation like this, where an act of cowardice of this magnitude has been inflicted on another producer, we are rallying together like a family for Soldera. And we would do the same for any of our producers,’ Bindocci added.

Soldera’s annual production of 15,000 bottles of Brunello di Montalcino, almost always designated Riservas after five and six years ageing, are among the most sought-after and expensive bottlings in the denomination.

[Images: Paolo Tenti]


Dez 05 2012

decanter.com: Inside the First Growths: Part 1

Tag: Allgemeinessigi.hiss @ 09:19

by Jane Anson – Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent, Jane Anson, followed the five estates for a year, enjoying privileged access to compile the first ever book on their Bordeaux legendslegendshistory and modus operandi. Here, she gives a unique insight into the ties that bind these legendary châteaux.

The invitation that landed in my letterbox sometime in March came from a new sommelier school to be opened later this year by the Chamber of Commerce and Industry (CCI) of Bordeaux. It was to a dinner, which was being held to officially announce the new school, at the Salon Bleu, in the 18th century headquarters of the CCI on Place de la Bourse in the town centre.
The name would have meant nothing to most of the invitees, but I was at the end of an 18-month period spent researching and writing about the 1855 first growth châteaux. I had a feeling that the Salon Bleu was at the heart of their story. Continue reading „decanter.com: Inside the First Growths: Part 1“


Dez 05 2012

decanter.com: Bordeaux launches winemaker and estate matchmaking service

Tag: Regionensigi.hiss @ 09:14

by Jane Anson in Bordeaux –  The Bordeaux government is launching a new initiative to match young winemakers looking to buy their first estate with properties owned by older winemakers approaching retirement. The plans come from the French national land agency, SAFER, together with the Ministry of Agriculture in the Gironde: the idea is to help the estimated 1,000 vineyard owners who are over 55 and do not have a succession plan in place. Continue reading „decanter.com: Bordeaux launches winemaker and estate matchmaking service“


Dez 05 2012

Deutschlandpremiere: Piper-Heidsieck präsentiert ausgezeichnete Prestige Cuvée Rare 2002

Tag: Weingütersigi.hiss @ 09:11

Jüngst von der anspruchsvollen Jury der IWC London zum sechsten Mal in Folge als „Sparkling Winemaker of the Year“ ausgezeichnet, zeigt sich in der neuen Piper-Heidsieck Prestige Cuvée Rare 2002 das ganze Können von Kellerchef Régis Camus: Nach sieben Jahren auf der Hefe hat der Champagner eine raffiniert seidige Textur und entwickelt Noten von Frühlingsblüten und exotischen Gewürzen. Das honorieren auch renommierte Weinführer wie der Wine Spectator: Hier wurde der Rare 2002 aktuell mit 95 von 100 möglichen Punkten ausgezeichnet.

Reims, Dezember 2012. Ein reichhaltiger Körper, außergewöhnliche Finesse und eine meisterhaft ausbalancierte Säure – diese Attribute schreibt der Wine Spectator der kürzlich vorgestellten Jahrgangscuvée von Piper-Heidsieck zu. Und auch auf anderen Weinwettbewerben wurde der Rare 2002 bereits hoch gelobt: MUNDUSvini 2012 zeichnete den Champagner mit der großen Goldmedaille aus, und der Weinführer Gilbert & Gaillard vergab 97 von 100 möglichen Punkten. Seit Herbst dieses Jahres ist der Spitzenschaumwein, der mit Reinheit und einem herausragend mineralischen Charakter brilliert und Noten von Birne, gerösteter Haselnuss, Brioche, exotischem Sandelholz, Zitrusfrüchten, weißer Kirsche und Kumquat aufweist, in Deutschland erhältlich. Continue reading „Deutschlandpremiere: Piper-Heidsieck präsentiert ausgezeichnete Prestige Cuvée Rare 2002“